Dress code guide
Black tie optional
Also written black tie preferred, black tie invited, black tie encouraged
A tuxedo is welcome, a dark suit is fine, and the evening is formal.
What it means
Black tie optional means the host welcomes formal evening wear but doesn't require it: men can wear a tuxedo or a dark suit and tie, and women a floor-length gown, formal midi dress or elegant evening separates.
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What black tie optional really means
Black tie optional is an invitation to go formal without the pressure. The word optional applies to one thing: the tuxedo. Everything else about the evening is formal, so optional is not a signal to dress down. Men who own or can easily rent a tuxedo should consider wearing it; a dark suit with a crisp white shirt and a dark tie is the correct alternative. Women can choose a gown, a formal midi or polished evening separates.
Reading the room helps. A black tie optional wedding in a hotel ballroom at 7 p.m. will skew toward tuxedos and long gowns, while the same words on a vineyard invitation in July may bring more dark suits and flowing midis. Look at the venue, the season and how the hosts usually dress, then use the outfit formulas below. When you're torn between two options, pick the dressier one; slightly overdressed always reads as a compliment to the hosts.
When you'll see it
- Evening weddings where the couple wants a formal feel without asking every guest to rent a tuxedo
- Charity galas and fundraising dinners
- Season-opening performances and donor evenings at arts venues
- Corporate award dinners and formal holiday parties
- Milestone celebrations at hotels, country clubs or museums
- Destination weddings at upscale resorts
Black tie optional for women
Dress as you would for black tie, with a little more latitude. A floor-length gown is always right; a formal midi, a tea-length dress or a sleek evening jumpsuit works too when the fabric is luxurious and the styling is polished.
Lengths: Floor-length is the safest choice and the most common at evening weddings. Tea-length and formal midi hems are completely acceptable. A knee-length dress only works if it's very dressy, like structured satin or heavy beading, and the crowd leans modern. Minis don't belong here.
Outfits that work
- Floor-length satin column gown in a jewel tone with gold drop earrings and a slim black clutch
- Formal midi dress in structured satin or brocade with a fitted bodice, strappy heels and a statement cuff
- One-shoulder chiffon gown with a draped bodice, metallic sandals and a small clutch, for summer
- Evening jumpsuit in heavy crepe with wide legs that graze the floor, satin pumps and chandelier earrings
- Plus-size: a floor-length empire-waist gown in matte jersey or crepe with flutter sleeves, strappy block heels and a small satin clutch
- Petite: a tea-length fit-and-flare dress with a V-neck and slim straps, pointed satin pumps and delicate drop earrings
- Fabrics
- Satin and duchess satin
- Crepe with enough weight to drape
- Chiffon for warm weather
- Velvet in winter
- Brocade and jacquard for formal midis
- Sequins and beading, in moderation
- Shoes
- Strappy heeled sandals, 2.5 to 4 inches
- Satin pumps
- Metallic block heels for long nights on your feet
- Embellished flats under a floor-length hem
- Accessories
- A small satin, beaded or metallic clutch
- Statement earrings or a fine necklace, not both
- A wrap or stole for cool evenings
- A slim bracelet or cuff
- A tailored evening coat in winter
Black tie optional for men
If you own a tuxedo or can rent one without fuss, wear it; you'll be in good company. Otherwise, a dark suit in black, charcoal or midnight navy with a white dress shirt, a dark silk tie and polished black shoes is fully correct. Light-colored or patterned suits read too casual for the evening.
Outfits that work
- Black or midnight navy tuxedo, white formal shirt, black bow tie and patent shoes, the option that honors the host's preference
- Charcoal or navy suit, white dress shirt, dark silk tie in black, navy or burgundy, white pocket square, black cap-toe oxfords
- Black suit with a white shirt and a black silk tie or bow tie, the closest a suit gets to a tuxedo
- Velvet dinner jacket with black trousers and a bow tie, for winter events
- Summer evening: an ivory dinner jacket with black trousers, or a midnight navy tropical-wool suit with a silk tie
- Tall and slim: a jacket with a slightly longer length and peak lapels, trousers with a slight break, and a wider tie or bow tie to balance a long frame
- Fabrics
- Worsted wool or wool-mohair for suits and tuxedos
- Tropical wool for summer evenings
- Velvet for jackets in cold months
- Silk ties and pocket squares
- Cotton poplin or piqué-front formal shirts
- Shoes
- Black cap-toe oxfords, highly polished
- Black patent oxfords with a tuxedo
- Black plain-toe oxfords or wholecuts
- Velvet slippers with a velvet jacket
- Accessories
- Dark silk tie or black bow tie
- White pocket square in a straight fold
- Simple cufflinks
- Black dress socks, over the calf
- A slim dress watch or none
Color, time and season
Getting the details right
Keep the palette dark and rich for evening: black, midnight navy, charcoal, and jewel tones such as emerald, sapphire, ruby and amethyst. Metallic gowns in gold, bronze or pewter work well at winter and holiday events. In spring and summer, softer jewel tones, dusty pastels and elegant florals on silk or chiffon suit the season. Men should stay with black, charcoal or midnight navy; light gray, tan and bold patterns look off at night. At weddings, leave white, ivory and pale champagne to the couple.
Evening
Black tie optional is nearly always an evening code. After dark, darker suits and longer hemlines are the norm.
Summer
Lighter fabrics like chiffon and tropical wool keep the look formal without overheating. An ivory dinner jacket is a sharp warm-weather option.
Winter
Velvet, long sleeves and deep jewel tones feel right. Bring an evening coat or wrap you'd be happy to be photographed in.
Outdoor and garden venues
Choose block heels or flats that won't sink into grass, hem gowns a touch shorter to stay clean, and bring a layer for the temperature drop after sunset.
Etiquette
Do's and don'ts
Do
- Wear the tuxedo if you already own one or can rent one easily.
- Keep suits dark and solid, with a white shirt and a dark silk tie.
- Choose floor-length when you're unsure; it's always correct here.
- Look at the venue and time to judge how many guests will wear tuxedos.
- Have your suit pressed and your shoes polished; details carry more weight when you skip the tuxedo.
- Carry a small evening bag instead of a day purse.
Don't
- Don't read optional as casual; the evening is still formal.
- Don't wear a light gray, tan or patterned suit to an evening event.
- Don't skip the tie with a suit.
- Don't choose a short, casual dress or a sundress.
- Don't wear brown shoes with a black or charcoal suit at night.
- Don't let a dark suit look like office wear; skip button-down collars and busy business shirts.
Compared
Black tie optional vs. other dress codes
Black tie optional vs. black tie
Black tie expects the tuxedo; black tie optional welcomes it but accepts a dark suit and tie. Women dress similarly for both, with formal midis more common at optional events.
Black tie optional vs. formal attire
Formal and black tie optional are close cousins. Formal is broader and occasionally used for daytime events, while black tie optional specifically signals that tuxedos will be present in the evening.
Black tie optional vs. cocktail attire
Cocktail attire is a step down: knee-length or midi dresses and suits, with no expectation of gowns or tuxedos.
Questions
Black tie optional FAQ
What is the difference between black tie and black tie optional?
At black tie, a tuxedo is expected for men; at black tie optional, a tuxedo is welcome but a dark suit with a tie is equally correct. For women, both call for a floor-length gown or very formal dress, though black tie optional leaves a bit more room for formal midis and evening separates. Both are evening codes, and neither is casual.
Can men wear a suit to a black tie optional wedding?
Yes. A dark suit is the accepted alternative to a tuxedo at a black tie optional wedding. Choose black, charcoal or midnight navy in a solid wool, and wear it with a white dress shirt, a dark silk tie, a white pocket square and polished black oxfords. Skip light or patterned suits and brown shoes, which read daytime.
Do women need a floor-length gown for black tie optional?
No, but it's the safest choice. A formal midi, tea-length dress or elegant evening jumpsuit is also appropriate if the fabric is luxurious and the styling is polished, with heels, a small clutch and good jewelry. Knee-length only works if the dress is very dressy and the crowd is modern; when in doubt, go long.
Is black tie optional the same as formal attire?
They're close, and many hosts treat them as equivalent. Black tie optional specifically tells you tuxedos will be in the room and are welcome, while formal is a broader term that can also describe daytime events or business settings. For an evening wedding, dress the same way for either: a tuxedo or dark suit and tie, and a gown or formal midi.
What color suit should you wear to black tie optional?
Black, charcoal or midnight navy. These dark, solid colors sit comfortably next to tuxedos and look right under evening light. Navy and charcoal are the most versatile if you'll wear the suit again; black is the most tuxedo-like. Avoid light gray, tan, bold checks and bright colors, and pair any of the dark options with a white shirt.
Should you wear a bow tie or a long tie to black tie optional?
Match the tie to the jacket. With a tuxedo, wear a black bow tie. With a dark suit, a long silk tie in black, navy, burgundy or another deep color is the standard, though a black bow tie with a black suit can look sharp and closer to a tuxedo. Avoid novelty patterns and skinny ties, which read casual.
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